Japan update

Winter Reunion in Kyoto

January, 2000

But even deep in this harsh cold dead of winter, it is a joyous time when the sound of the bamboo can be heard, warming the hearts of its listeners and pupils. I just got over a sumo-sized flu that had me out cold for 4 days. I'm still feeling weak from its after-effects. It's hibernation time anyways and this is a good a time as any to give you an update. I've been here a year now and life has taken root here nicely. Many interesting things have transpired and many fascinating people have I met this winter including the bamboo sound sculptor Akinori Matsumoto whom I call the "Bamboo Monk", and shakuhachi master and jazz musician, John Kaizan Neptune who lives in a geodesic dome house deep in the Japanese country side.

But the highlight was my winter vacation spent in Kyoto* with my friend from Vancouver, Takeo Yamashiro. He is also affectionately known as Take-san**. Take-san was invited to give a lecture on social work at a University in Kyoto. We had a great meeting.

We spent many joyful hours talking and enjoying eachother's company. The high points were our visits to the temples, especially Meian-ji*** and Tofukuji where the three of us played shakuhachi together in the beautiful, ancient surroundings where the spirit of old Japan could still be felt. One day before heading to the temples, we stopped and ate at a small kitchen run by two energetic, friendly, old ladies. It is refreshing to experience the openness and warmth of Kansai people as opposed to the relatively cautious and cool demeanor of Tokyo folks. Down the counter from us was an old man who looked like a regular. At one point, the ladies asked us to play. Take-san said, "We'll let the young guy play a piece," (That meant me) So, I took out my 2.4 shakuhachi and played the honkyoku, Yamagoe. I wasn't warmed up but I played the piece so many times that it was second nature. I closed my eyes and played. When I opened my eyes, the old ladies just stood there not saying anything and the old man was wiping tears away from his eyes. After a few moments, the old ladies started to clap and give me compliments. As I was standing there, a couple walked in and looked kind of irritated since I was blocking their way to a seat at the counter, so I excused myself and went back to my seat. When we were done eating, we said our goodbyes, and walked to Meian-ji to offer prayers and take pictures in front of the large stone with the kanji-glyph of "suizen" carved into the face. Then we walked to Tofuku-ji where we played in front of the large hall where a gigantic statue of Amida Buddha is housed. The acoustics of that space are incredible, not to mention the stunningly beautiful architecture and landscape design of the temple/shrine grounds. We spent the afternoon there playing shakuhachi and taking pictures then went back tomy room to relax and drink more sake! Take-san had to return to Vancouver early soon so we said our goodbyes the next morning.

I practiced shakuhachi every day and played at the temples every morning. On New Year's Eve, I cooked rice cake soup for dinner and meditated as the clock struck midnight. Then I went out and walked around, stopping at the great Chion-ji Buddhist Temple where I offered prayers and struck a large gong to accentuate our good energies for the new year. Then I walked to Gion, to Yasaka Shrine where it was thoroghly packed with people enjoying the carnival atmosphere and clamoring to buy good luck charms (mamori) and memorabilia to take back home with them. Many were still observing an ancient shinto tradition of carrying pieces of rope with their ends burning which they obtained from the local temple and spinning them around to keep it burning till they get home then light the first fire of their stoves for the year with this burning rope. I got back home at about 3:00 am. Wearing my new white "seta" slippers and black tabi, I walked to Meian-ji to play 1000 long tone prayers on my shakuhachi in front of the ancient, wooden gates, as fog, soft rain, and morning mist blanketed the atmosphere. Then I walked to Tofuku-ji and played honkyoku as I watched the sun rise over the great dragon-scaled roof tops of the ancient temples and hills of Kyoto. At 6:00am the massive wooden doors of the great Buddha hall opened, the sound of the deep creakings echoing through the hall.

I returned to Saitama tired from the long bus ride from Kyoto, but happy for coming back a different person.

*Kyoto is the old capital city of Japan. There is height regulation to the buildings to preserve the scenic beauty of the landscape and mountains. It is a charming mix of old and new. There are hundreds of old, well-preserved beautiful temples woven into the fabric of the city amongst modern urban architecture.

**Take-san moved to Vancouver in 1971 to escape the tyranny and stifling atmosphere of Japan at the time. He was the last uchi-deshi (live in student) of shakuhachi master Kikusui Kofu at his temple, Shakado, in Kyoto. When he first came to Vancouver, Take-san played shakuhachi on the streets to put food in his mouth. By good fortune, he was offered a job as head of a Japanese community social work organization, called Tonari Gumi where he still works to this day. Take-san is a pillar of the Japanese community in Vancouver did much to introduce many Canadians to the magic and beauty of shakuhachi. When I moved to Vancouver 4 years ago Take-san became my mentor and still has great influence on me.

***Meian-ji (or Myoan-ji) was the old headquarters for the Komuso in the Edo period.