Shakuhachi Roots Pilgrimage #1

Nov. 18 - Dec. 3, 2004

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Harvesting

Playing

Jinashi

Jiari

Making

Makers

Zazen

Misogi

Suizen

Music

Sankyoku

Honkyoku

Henro

Family

Peace

Tendai

Zen

Shinto

Matsuri

Participants:

Jane Kilthau (New York, USA)

Jean Mihell (Vancouver, BC, Canada)

Ronan Nanning (Victoria, BC, Canada)

John Paul Sicotte (Edmonton, Alberta, Canada)

Peter Smith (Vancouver, BC, Canada)

Paris Smith (Vancouver, BC, Canada)

As I write, I am living in the past, within memories and imagination, as the experience was quite difficult to capture on paper while engaged in it.

Peter Smith's poems may help in solving this dilema!

The memory I am referring to is the pilgrimage to Japan this past November/December to experience the roots of shakuhachi from a physical-visceral basis.

As the organizer and guide of this unique excursion into Japan, I am only giving my own perspective on it. There are so many emotions and levels of nuance to this journey that it is impossible to capture the entire experience in words. So I hope to incorporate the other participants’ view into this narrative. There were seven of us, including me, who came to Japan for the tour. Ronan Nanning, the youngest (14 years of age) in first year of highschool, who has been studying shakuhachi with me for three years. Peter Smith, a computer systems executive for an insurance firm in Richmond, BC, who has been studying with me for over a year. His wife, Paris, a buyer for a clothing chain in Vancouver; Jean Mihell, Peter Smith’s mother, a retired nurse who just started playing shakuhachi a month ago; Jane Kilthau, from New York, a retired highschool teacher, who has been studying with Ronnie Seldin for 9 years; and John Paul Sicotte from Edmonton, Alberta, a computer programmer who plays taiko/shinobue who started shakuhachi after coming to the Vancouver Shakuhachi Festival last year. In Japan we were joined by Justin Ken Tobias, an Australian working in Kanazawa-prefecture.

This trip is a dream come true for me as I’ve always wanted to take students to Japan to experience Japanese culture and shakuhachi.

Tokyo (Nov. 18-19)

Submerged again within the Tokyo atmosphere; my blood quickens to the pace of the mass of humanity and technology merging like ghosts into the ether. Old, familiar feelings wash over me.....but this time not a slave to a company but a vessel of shakuhachi and O-Kami-sama, guiding students, first timers to Japan.  Guided by the spirits of shakuhachi, the depression of Tokyo is dispersed like sun shining out of a dark cave. I see through the cracks of glass and steel into a truly beautiful dimension.

This first day in Tokyo was spent relaxing and walking around Ueno Park and spending the afternoon viewing ancient Japanese historical artifacts at the massive National Museum. On our way home we all played shakuhachi in the center of Ueno park as people were going home from work. The sun was setting and our sound floated through the mist and smog and branches of cherry trees lining the park walkways.

Back at the hostel I could barely sleep as I was extremely excited about the next day’s trip to Nagano to harvest bamboo.

Nagano (Nov. 20-21)

Waking up at 5 AM we all got to Shinjuku Station by 6:30 AM. Our train to Nagano left at 7:15 AM. We got to Sakakita Station, a tiny town in the mountains of Nagano around 10:30 AM and Atsuya Okuda was there to greet us. He had a bus waiting for us and we threw all our bags in the bus and drove to the ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) where were all met by other members of the Zensabo, Atsuya Okuda’s school of bamboo flute players, old friends and new ones.

After lunch the harvesting began. The area where we were to harvest was only 5 minutes from the ryokan. The day was glorious. Sunny, warm and clear skies. We parked by the side of the road and everyone signed out for tools to harvest bamboo: pick-chisel, hammer, and hand saw. Then we all trekked up the side of steep hill covered in bamboo. As we went higher the steeper it got and it eventually became quite treacherous. Many times I would slip and nearly saved myself from a fatal tumble by clutching onto a bamboo stalk.

Before actually harvesting I offered sake and dried squid to the spirits of the mountain and bamboo.

To harvest, one must select a desirable piece of bamboo that is not too young and a suitable diameter. Then the upper stalk is cut to make bamboo extraction easier. With hammer and pick the roots are cut at least 5 inches below the earth. Roots are extremely strong so a great deal of muscle and energy is needed to extract a stalk. My goal was to get 30 stalks but I came out with 14 which is still a good harvest. We stayed there for 5 hours but I could have stayed there all night !

We descended the slopes and began cleaning the bamboo roots as the sun set, preparing for the bamboo burning the next day.

The evening was a time for celebration. After a hard day's work on the mountain harvesting bamboo, the onsen (hotspring) at the ryokan felt incredible! Shower, hot pool, sauna, cold pool....donning the cotton yukata... heaven.  Then a traditional Japanese meal in the main room with everyone. After dinner we all gathered in a big room there was a sharing of honkyoku by those who wished to play. I started with the piece, Tamuke then many people chose one honkyoku to play...Koku, Echigo Meian Sanya, Daha, Neri Saji, Koku, Sagari Ha...

Sleep was peaceful and deep.

The next morning after breakfast was abura-nuki, oiling and drying bamboo by heating over fire. We all gathered at Okuda-san's friend's place where fires were made. It was a fun, communal experience as we all burned bamboo together over the bonfires. We spent all morning doing abura nuki then our group had to leave for Kyoto after 1 PM. We took the train from Nagano Station to Kyoto where we met Yoshio Kurhashi at Kyoto Station at 6:40 PM.

Kyoto/Nara (Nov. 21-23)

Arriving in Kyoto, Yoshio Kurahashi met us at the Kyoto Station just as we exited the station. It was so kind of him to take us all to our hotels. We all had dinner at a Denny's-style restaurant across from our hotel and talked about our next day's schedule which included a workshop on Mukai-ji and visiting the shakuhachi temple, Meian Ji.

The next morning we took a short bus ride to the residence of Kurahashi-sensei where we met Mrs. Kurahashi who is also fine koto player and teacher. We were lead us through his maze-like, traditional Japanese house which has been in his family for several generations, to the second floor where we sat on the tatami around a long, low table. After being served tea, our workshop on the honkyoku Mukai-ji (Flute on the Misty Sea) began. I picked this piece for workshop especially as to forshadow our next stop after Kyoto and Nara which was Mie Prefecture. Mukai-ji is one of the three famed oldest pieces of shakuhachi honkyoku includeing Kyorei and Kokuu. Legend has it that Kyochiku Zenji (a.k.a. Kichiku) traveled to the Koku Zodo temple on Mt. Asakuma in Mie Prefecture where he had a dream where he was lying in a boat in the middle of the misty ocean. While drifting, he heard the beautiful sound of a flute melody. Upon awakening he memorized and transcribed pieces from the dream which were named Mukai-ji and Kokuu.

After giving an interesting historical background on the Koten San Kyoku (three oldest shakuhachi pieces), he described "kyosui" empty, natural blowing, which is blowing naturally through the shakuhachi, emphasizing the initial attack of sound and trailing off into silence. A very interesting point Kurahashi sensei made about the meaning of suizen is that, that actual meaning is not what most people think it is. He said that most people think that it is one thing--which is blowing shakuhachi. But he said the actual meaning is not directly related to playing shakuhachi exactly. The actual meaning is--"Blowing and Zen are One"--which is the phrase that is carved on a plaque within the inner sanctum of Meian Ji temple. In other words, blowing (which is just our own everyday breathing), and meditation, (referring to sitting zen) which are separate in themselves, are the same thing. Also, he also expressed his personal belief that shakuhachi is more akin to the practice of Tendai Buddhism (Japanese Esoteric Buddhism) which utilizes various meditative techniques such as mandalas, mudras, sound, and, visualizations.

We all enjoyed the lesson on Mukaiji as well as Kurahashi's relaxed way and humorous anecdotes. The playing style Kurahashi used was very different from our usual use of meri technique using half holing. In the style he demonstrated, all meris are done without finger, only with embouchure /neck movement. Consequently there were lots of fingerings which were a bit different than we were used to. Kurahashi said that the reason for not using half-holing was that the structure of the instrument and level of sophistication of playing was much more basic back when this piece was composed. Although the instrument has evolved they still retain those particular fingerings.

After the workshop we had gyoza (pork dumplings) from Mr. Gyoza (reportedly the most delicious gyoza maker in Kyoto!) delivered to the house where we all ate together. After lunch Kurahashi sensei took us to Meian-ji temple, which was only a 10 minute bus ride from his home. This was a very special visit as the temple was actually closed that day. Interesting, as it was a very busy day for tourists (in fact, the most crowded day I have ever seen in Kyoto!) But Kurahashi sensei secured us a private meeting with the head priest of Meian-Ji as well as a viewing of the inner sanctum. The genkan (entrance hall) walls were lined with hundreds of wooden strips with the names of members of this shakuhachi temple. Within the main shrine was a sculpted effigy of Kichiku, the legendary "first Komuso" and founder of Meian-Ji; as well as several pictures and photos of historical shakuhachi personas. The temple, although relatively small was in wonderful shape, clean and glowing with life. All around the temple were well manicured moss-gardens with trimmed pine and maple trees who's branches were controlled by bamboo poles and rock weights tied to various sections of the boughs; and wooden poles placed under certain branches to facilitate upward growth. After placing a monetary offering in an envelope upon the alter, and bowing deeply, we all played the piece Tamuke as our honkyoku offering to the spirits of the shakuhachi ancestors.

We felt very honored as this was our very first time to set foot inside the Meian Ji inner hall, and being met by the priest. Deep thanks and gassho to Kurahashi Yoshio sensei!

After leaving Meian Ji, we visited Tofukuji only a few minutes walk away. As it was the height of the autumn-leaves-viewing season with weather perfect and warm, crowds were at full capacity. The leaves were undoubtedly in spactacular firey form as waves of people poured in from everywhere to enjoy this most beautiful time of the year.

The rest of the evening was spent exploring downtown Kyoto to do some serious shopping in the marvelous old shopping district near Kiyomizu Temple and Gojo-zaka. The steep and narrow streets are lined with stores which have been serving tourists and pilgrims for many centuries.

The next morning we all woke up early to beat the crowds. Our first destination was visting Nijo Castle. This world cultural heritage site was built by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, in 1603 as his residence in Kyoto. The Castle has been a venue of various important historic events: here Ieyasu and his rival Hideyori Toyotomi held talks; the General Staff Office was located in this Castle during the two civil wars in which Ieyasu defeated Hideyori; and the fifteenth Shogun Tokugawa Yoshinobu announced his resolution to return his administrative power to the Imperial Household here in 1867.

One of the most interesting features of the Castle are the famed "Nightengale Floors" (uguisu bari) around the perimeter of the main hall. They produce a chirping sound when pressure is applied to the surface of the boards. This was a kind of protective alarm system for castle inhabitants. Unannounced visitors could quickly be heard creaking around the castle. At first I thought it was a recorded sound piped through speakers as it sounded quite synthetic. But upon careful examination of the floor and our feet pressing the wood, it was the floors that were indeed singing!

The gardens around the castle grounds were also stunning. On that beautiful day it was such a pleasure to walk and enjoy the manicured gardens. There was even an informal tea ceremony that we partook in.

Our next desintation was, Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) a Zen temple formally known as Rokuonji, famous for it's covering of gold-leaf. Originally constructed as a place of retirement for the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu in 1397, Kinkakuji was converted into a Zen temple after his death in 1408. In 1950 the building was burned down by a fanatical monk so it was rebuilt to its present structure in 1955. The present structure houses sacred Buddhist relics.

I have visited this temple several times in the past so I didn't bother going into the main grounds this time. The crowds were beginning to really get heavy as well so I was satisfied to just wait outside for the others as they took in the sights. Ronan, John Paul, and I waited outside together. I suddenly had the idea of playing shakuhachi for in front of the large, beautiful bell surrounded by the beautiful red leaves of maple. So Ronan and I took out our flutes and played the duet, Shika no Tone as crowds of people passed by. Halfway through the piece, a few men in uniforms approached us, and in a scolding tone told us to stop playing as this was a holy site. I apologized and we quickly packed up our flutes and left the grounds.

When the rest of our group re-joined us we headed to my personal favorite spot in Kyoto, Ryoan-ji only a 5 minute bus ride or 15 minute walk west of Kinkakuji, The temple's main attraction is its karesansui (dry rock garden), the most famous of its kind in Japan. The simple Zen garden consists of nothing but a few deftly-placed rocks, moss, and neatly raked white gravel. Its meaning is quite mysterious and basically up to one's own interpretation. I find the connection of karesansui (and Japanese arts in general) to the religion of Shinto and Zen Buddhism quite fascinating.

We stayed for a good 2 hours, but I could've stayed there all day.

Next on the schedule was to meet with my old acquiantance, the architect/bamboo sculptor, AkioHizume,(http://homepage1.nifty.com/starcage/englishindex.html) whom I met in Bali at the 1994 International Bamboo Congress. He and a group of people were gathering at the edge of Takanogawa to play on some bamboo instruments a kind of new music based on mathematical formulas which he calls "Fibonacci Kecak". The actual performance was delayed substantially as we witnessed, right at the foot of the river, an emergency helicopter land and transport a seriously ill woman into a waiting ambulance (near where we were seated.) It was kind of a surreal scene as dust and sand was flying everywhere from the large propellors and curious onlookers eager to catch a sight of the woman on the stretcher. After that dramatic event, the sun was already setting and the others were quite impatient to get going on their ways so I bid them farewell till the next day. I waited for Akio's ensemble to get ready again and finally got a chance to jam with the group around 6:30 pm.

Visiting Yamaguchi Shugetsu in Nara

Another early morning. We get to the station at 8 AM and take the Kintetsu Railway to Nara. I contacted the shakuhachi master maker Shugetsu Yamaguchi a few months back and scheduled this day to visit his house. Peter's wife, who is not a shakuhachi player, and his mother visited Nara Koen where the deer park and Daibutsu was we visited with Yamaguchi-san. He and his wife picked the 5 of us at the train station and drove all of us with all our baggage to his lovely house in the suburbs. We spent all morning with him as he showed us his workshop and many of his fine flutes. Mrs. Yamaguchi is also a fine koto player and we got a chance to play Chidori no Kyoku with her which was really a treat! Ronan, who was looking for a new shakuhachi eventually ended up buying one of the flutes Yamaguchi showed us. Ronan was so elated! Many gifts for him on this trip. We had to be back to Nara Station by 12:00 noon. As we were running late, Yamaguchi-san went out of his way to drive us back to the station as we barely caught our train to Yokkaichi in Mie Prefecture.

Mie (Nov. 23-25)

We arrived at Yokkaichi at about 3:00 pm. We had to take the bus to our next destination, the Tsubaki Grand Shrine in Suzuka. This shrine is the Mie Ken Ichi no Miya (first Shrine of Mie prefecture), Tsubaki O'Kami Yashiro - established in 3 B.C. (in the 27th year of 11th Emporer Suinin) - is one of the oldest and most prestigious shrines in Japan. Tsubaki Daihogu is famous for its Konryu-Myojin waterfall where misogi (a waterfall purification) is practiced. Here is main shrine of the kami-sama (honorable deity) Sarutahiko O'Kami, primal deity of positiveness, guidance and protection, leader of all Kunitsu Kami (earthly deities), and guardian of Aiki-do. Tsubaki O'Kami Yashiro is also the Dai Hongu (main shrine) of Ame no Uzume no Mikoto, heavenly deity of divine movement, meditation, marriage and joy. Ame no Uzume no Mikoto is the wife of Sarutahiko O'Kami.

Our next bus was at 4:30 so we had an hour and a half to wait. So we walked around and had  a bite to eat near the station. The bus ride was about an hour. Misogi was at 5:00 PM but I called the shrine and told them we would be late but they said they would wait for us. When we arrived it was already dark and the wind was blowing wildly as if there was a dragon in the sky. We got off the bus and a tall, thin man in a white kimono and sky-blue hakama greeted us. This was Iwasaki-san, one of the resident kannushi (shinto priests) of Tsubaki Shrine.

After checking in to our rooms were handed towels, fundoshi, and hachimaki for the evening misogi at the waterfall of Tsubaki Shrine. The feeling was quite magical as we walked under the giant torii and into the temple grounds down a long gravel road lined with candle-lit lamps leading to the main shrine. The wind was still blowing wildly through the ancient trees which added to the mysterious atmosphere. Iwasaki-san the shinto priest lead us through the front of shrine and around to the rear where the males and females went into separate changing rooms where we changed into our minimal misogi outfits (fundoshi and hachimaki). Then we all met in front to the waterfall where we all did a kind of warm up composed of various calesthenics and chanting to prepare our bodies and minds for the coming experience. After the warm-up we followed Iwasaki-san down the torch-lined staircase leading to the waterfall. After ceremonially spraying salt and sake into the air Iwasaki entered the water and under the waterfall. Then it was my turn. After clapping two times and silcing the air with my fingers, I entered the  roaring waterfall, while chanting shinto mantra, positioning my body so that the water hit my upper back and shoulders. After about 30 seconds I heard Iwasaki-san's signal to exit the fall. Everyone took turns to experience the waterfall then we all changed back into our clothes and met in the main hall where we sat in meditation for several minutes.

Afterwards we all went back to the kaikan and had a nice onsen and dinner. Then we all met in one room where we all played shakuhachi together until 1am.

Iga Ueno

The next day Ronan, John Paul visited Iga Ueno for the day. Iga Ueno is famous for being a center of the legendary Iga-Ryu Ninja clan. It is also the birthplace of the famous haiku poet, Matsuo Basho. We took a relaxing bus and train ride to the little town of Iga Ueno and another short bus ride to the front of the Ninja museum. It was fun and interesting to visit the museum as there were many cryptic traditions of the Ninja that were on display for the public to see. We saw an entertaining demonstration of Ninjitsu (martial arts techniques of ninja). Then we decided to eat lunch and get back to the Jinja early to rest and relax.

Tokyo again (Nov. 26-Dec. 2)

Then next day we bid farewell to the Jinja and kannushi at 9:30 AM and took the shinkansen back to Tokyo. We made it back to Tokyo around 4 PM and dropped our luggage off at the Crown Plaza Hotel  where Peter, Paris, and Jean were staying. Those of us who were going to the Zen Dojo this evening packed a day pack. Our next destination was Kugayama where we were to meet Christopher Yohmei Blasdel who was giving a workshop on body awareness and basic blowing techniques. I navigated the group through the thick of Tokyo rush hour changing train lines three times to get to Kugayama. Needless to say by the time we arrived we were exhausted. Christopher's workshop was very relaxing and fun which was just what we needed after a full day of travel. He showed us some very practical excersises to help relax our bodies and to be more aware of our sensations while playing. We spent 2 hours with Christopher but unfortunately we had to leave immediately after the workshop as we were schduled to check in to the Ichi Ku Kai Zen Dojo that evening.

We bid farewell to Christopher and took the trains to Musashi Koganei station where we decided to take a taxi to the Zen Dojo as it was quite windy and getting late and temperature was dropping. The taxi driver couldn't find the address I gave him so I asked him to drop us off around an approximate place. It was already nearing midnight when I decided to call Adam Sorkin, one of the English speaking residents of the dojo. He told us to sit tight while he came to fetch us. After a few minutes he arrived on a bicycle and guided us in the dark to a white cement structure in a 1950's modern Bauhaus style. Within the concrete structure was hidden a traditional, albeit dilapidated Japanese-style house and meditation hall. Adam showed us where the washrooms and sleeping quarters were and briefed us on the next day's schedule. We were exhausted but we had to get up in four hours for meditation. After washing up we quickly pulled out the ancient stained futons, got underneath several layers and fell asleep to the rattling sound of wild winds blowing against the wood and glass sliding doors of the house.

I woke up automatically before 4 AM and waited till I heard the sounds of the other dojo residents scuffling around before I got up. After freshening up Adam instructed us to clean the dojo before meditation. We swept the floors and tatami mats, toweled down the floors and wiped all the windows clean. Then the head teacher instructed us in their particular form of meditation. Before we actually meditated, the regular dojo members did 30 minutes of a spccial misogi training for advanced students. Then we all went up to the second floor where the meditation hall was, took cushions, folded them under us, and sat on the cushions in half lotus or full lotus position. We sat for 1 hour in the austere cold of early morning. Then we followed the senior students to the kitchen where they prepared us a breakfast of green tea, miso soup and rice. During a short break we signed our names in the ledger and socialized with the resident students. After the break, was our next meditation session. Before sitting we all were handed bokuto (wooden swords) and took our places in the meditation hall and everyone did 1000 strokes of the sword as each person took turns counting to 100. Then we sat again for an hour. Afterwards we had another short break then went out into the yard where we swept and raked leaves for a few hours. Then it was lunch time. We had soba, umeboshi, and tea. Meals were a solemn affair. We were supposed to follow every movement of the senior students as close as possible. Very minimal talking. Only seiza sitting is permitted.

After lunch our time at the dojo was complete. But before leaving we offered a honkyoku in front of the kami-dana then said farewell to everyone.

We took the train back to our hotels where we slept soundly for several hours.

The next day we were scheduled to meet Kinya Sogawa for a jinashi shakuhachi making workshop in Tokorozawa. We arrived in Tokorozawa a little late but Lauria was there to pick us up. She guided us to the community center where Kinya-san was sitting on the floor, tools and bamboo spread out upon a blue tarp. It was very informative and fascinating watching him construct the flute. There was not enough time for everyone to make a flute, so I volunteered to try to make a flute as Sogawa critiqued my technique. Peter ended up trading a raw piece of bamboo for that flute.

After the workshop we all treated Kinya and Laurie for dinner at a nearby Indian restaurant. Then we thanked them then headed  back to the hotel.

The next morning we visited Murai-san where he gave us a free workshop on flute making. He was very generous, than Sogawa as he even took us through tamenoashi process (bamboo straightening) process as well as making a flute. His apartment was a little too small for us to make flutes with him, but he shared lots with us.

The next day was a free day. I spent the day organzing the final few days of the stay in Japan while the others took a day trip to Kamakura where the beautiful Daibutsu sits.

Saitama (Dec. 3-5)

It was great to have a day of rest. On. Dec. 3 we took the Red Arrow Express directly to Chichibu Station, situated deep in the mountains of Saitama prefecture. Chichibu is known throughout Japan for its famous Yo Matsuri  (Winter Night Festival) which happens every year on Dec. 3 as well as its Buddhist pilgrimage route which has 33 temple sites dedicated to Kannon, a Buddhist deity known as the Goddess of Mercy.

During the Festival tens of thousands of people come to experience the great Festival atmosphere and see the exhibition of Dashi (floats) from the 5 surrounding towns each weighing over 10 tons and highly decorated with candle-lit lanterns. Within each float are housed unseen taiko drummers who beat out the famous Chichibu taiko piece “Yatai Bayashi” all night long. The floats are pulled all throughout town’s streets by men and women dressed in happi coats and hachimaki. The grand finale is when the huge floats are pulled up the steep slope called Dango-zaka and into the courtyard where they are displayed in all their glory under the climax of beautiful fireworks.

The shakuhachi player from Australia, Brownwyn Kirkpatrick was also present at the Festival. She had just passed her shihan test and was on a scholarship to study shakuhachi in Japan. It was nice to hang out with her and get to know her better

After the Festival, we all packed into a bus and traveled 2 hours up into the mountains to Mitsumine Shrine where our shakuhachi masters class to be held. We arrived there about midnight and checked into our rooms. After an amazing onsen we all fell asleep in our most incredible feeling futons.

The workshop started after lunch and we worked on Sanya and Koku. In the evening everyone had a chance to play solo or in groups which was good experience for everyone. Dinner was excellent then we all enjoyed more playing and drinking together.

The next morning Kakizakai finished the workshop on Koku then our group had to head back to Tokyo. So we all said farewell and Megu, Kakizakai-sensei’s wife gave us a ride back to the Chichibu train station where we caught the Red Arrow Express back to Tokyo.

HAIKU

from the first

Shakuhachi Roots Pilgrimage 2004

By Peter Smith

First time in Japan--

passport, page 7

new orange sticker.

Airport security,

prompt and efficient:

no photos here.

Come refresh yourself

with ice green tea--

our first vending machine.

Restaurant meal--

sake laughter

across smoke filled air.

Japanese culture:

not so different,

just different.

November rains

busily play pachinko

on our umbrellas.

Across from Ueno park

hot ramen noodles

go slurp!

Antique swords

in the national museum

slice through history.

Under a sole umbrella,

while above,

a thousand raindrops.

Ginkgo tree--

fans carpet the ground,

we walk on.

Subway station with its

thousands of commuters;

us against the flow.

Bamboo grove,

hammering chisel sounds

--shakuhachi beavers.

Cutting bamboo,

dirt under fingernails--

the roots of Honkyoku.

[Honkyoku = original repertoire.]

Steep slope--

my bamboo culm

takes a quick ride down.

Sake bottle forgotten,

his long sweet tone

fills my cup.

Thick smoke--

bamboo held over a fire;

the wind has turned.

Blue pagoda roofs--

reflected sunlight

on a country lake.

Tokyo express train--

gentle rocking,

no rush here.

Eighty eight, eighty nine...

lost count,

here’s a new railway post.

Bamboo culms--

each connected to the others,

the same once a flute.

Cloud darkened hills--

rain cleans the air

for playing Koku.

[Koku = Empty Sky]

It's either seaweed

or pickle, definitely

not the original colour.

Leaves orange and red--

thousands have come to see

thousands more in line.

At Meianji temple

we play an offering

till the sound subsides.

Starting anywhere,

finishing anywhere,

we just played.

Famed city Kyoto

of a hundred temples,

not a monk in sight.

Department complex

casts its shadow--

temple obscura.

Two lovely geisha:

come take our picture

2,000 yen.

Rich complexities

of real green tea--

every sip.

Past the ticket booth

the temple sits--

manicured pines.

Ryoanji temple--

no need to enter,

their garden is empty.

[Ryoanji = home of the famed rock garden.]

Shugetsu flute--

my hand won't let go

as I return it.

[Shugetsu = master flute maker.]

Ordinary meal,

yet served on the side,

green tea salt.

Basho's birthplace--

a most wonderful place

to think of  nazuna.

[Nazuna = Shepherd's Purse]

If you stand on the tracks,

the Bullet Train

--like a bullet.

Shinto water purification

--stone frogs observe

funky underwear.

Through peach tree forest

an ancient pilgrimage

--fresh tracks.

Tatami mat room--

a black beetle sleeps

outside by my shoes.

Kind subway rider,

business suit and tie,

pushed us all in tighter.

Overnight at a Zen dojo

bitter cold winds

rattle the windows.

Zendo sangha--

lovely dog wags her tail

yet tied close by.

Restaurants in Tokyo--

shoes in lockers

making new friends.

Each of us eager

to make shakuhachi

--only one drill.

Temple tourist attraction--

locals pray for luck,

mainly just incense.

Finely dressed mannequins

grace Ginza shops--

the only ones not bowing.

Odd shower head

three feet off the floor,

the stool is the clue.

Big Buddha sits

eyes downcast,

mine through a camera.

Counting yen,

what’s been spent, what remains:

enough to get home?

Matsuri winter festival--

the beat of taiko drums,

the call of street vendors.

Shakuhachi practice

heard far down the hall

--paper walls.

Trunk of an old tree

inside a new one grows--

restoration at mountain shrine.

New bamboo in tow,

new friends part,

plenty of hugs.

Lining the road

feathery bamboo tops wave

--we shall return.

Summary from Jean Mihell

  Late in Nov. and early Dec. I ventured on an exciting and experiential seventeen day pilgrimage to Japan to the roots of the shakuhaichi, (bamboo flute). Peter, my son, has been learning how to play the flute and I accompanied him and his wife, Paris, on a journey organized by his teacher, Al Ramos. On arrival we harvested bamboo stalks from a grove located on a hillside with a 60 to 80 degree slope. Before cutting and digging away the roots we checked the bamboo for age, root structure, circumference, and number of nodes on the trunk. The next day we cured the stalks by holding the bamboo over a roaring bonfire, wiping away the oil and watched the wood turn from green to amber. The shakuhaichi Sensei, Okuda, took our pieces of bamboo home to put in the sun for fifteen days. The Japanese makers and masters were a jolly group and we had a great party at the ryokan, (guest house) where we feasted on traditional Japanese cuisine and tried their onsen or traditional bath. Later in our travels, we watched a flute maker take a simple piece of bamboo and create a shakuhachi which when blown emitted the beautiful tones and musical colours of ancient Japan. Intervening days we attended classes and workshops on how to play the old and new music of Japan. We were admitted to the inner sanctums of Shinto Shrines and Zen Buddhist Temples dedicated to bamboo, the shakuhaichi, and Gods and Goddesses of Japan. We had the privilege of participating in a Misogi, (water purification ritual) at Tsubaki Jinja, slept over night and meditated with the Monks in a Zen Buddhist Dojo, shared meals with the families of our Sensei, and took part in a Matsuri, (festival) in Chichibu to celebrate Dec. 3, when the God of the Chichibu Shrine comes to earth to mate with his woman and thus continue the fertility of the land and people. On this exciting and educational journey  I experienced life in modern day Japan and shared in some of their ancient traditions.

From Ronan Nanning (age 14)

November 17, 04
Day 1- still on plane, it hasn’t left yet, off the ground that is. So far very excited, don’t fully believe that I’m actually on a plane, heading for Japan. It’s amazing. On the plane, most of the people are Japanese, and wearing little slippers, that’s the only difference to the plane I took to England. Little space - lots of excitement.
I have a window seat, at the very front, just after 1st class. It feels like a city bus, except more Japanese stuff, and the bus has wings. So far so good.

Still on plane, we saw “Dodge Ball”, pretty good all those characters Ben Stiller always does are pretty entertaining. Phenomenal view, really sunny, all clouds and a little water peaking through, quite the epiphany. Japanese lady next to me is really interesting. She puts all of the little sesame things on her napkin and eats each one individually with calculated elegance. PROFOUND! The food was good, if you like things that suck. It’s some sort of an Indian replica, but no flavor or spice. It’s a very loud plane. Especially the toilets. When you flush it, I say to myself “prepare yourself for the FWAOoosh!” as that violent plunge always gets me off guard.

I can now see water below.

Midnight. Slept on plane for only an hour. In Tokyo we couldn’t find the hotel until 11 PM. It’s on some awkward corner around the bend and it’s raining like a mad man out there. End Of Day 1.

Couldn’t sleep for an hour when we got to the hostel. I eventually did though. Got up fairly early, damn this pillow! It’s stuffed with some sort of painful bean. I’ve seen one’s like it before but not pillows for sleeping on. It’s like a kind of rock. Today is a day of rest. Will go sight seeing maybe. Still exhausted, need more sleep. This room smells like a gerbil cage and I’m told that’s the tatami. NEED TO SLEEP!

List of Goals while in Japan:

* Drink Sake
* Eat some weird fish
* Get a picture with school girls doing the peace sign
* Have a bath
* Shop for clothes
* Email people
* Sleep well
* Not get robbed
* Not get lost
* Eat ramen

So far, we’ve only lost one person, but we found him soon after, looking for us. It’s still raining. My jaw hurts from chewing a whole package of gum on the airplane. I emailed some people. It costs 100 yen= $1.10ish.

Watching Japanese T.V. with lots of samurai. I went to a ramen Bar for 1000 yen. Chicken. So very worth it! The restaurant had a subway under it, like all of Tokyo, and slippery floors. It was 30 times more expensive than a package in Vancouver but completely worth it. Tomorrow, I will have to get up at (unfinished sentence)

Day 3
Last night I had a bath, one of the traditional ones. Basically it was me and two other guys crammed into a tub. I wore a swimsuit, they didn’t. Your not supposed to wear anything, but I did anyway. I finally slept after the bath. Today I was forced to get up at 5:00! CRAZY! Fortunately I packed my bag the night before, so it wasn’t in a panic rush in the morning. Right now I am sitting on a train, next to someone eating something I’m guessing is raw fish. Good times, good times.

Exhausted again! Bamboo harvesting all day. The incredible bamboo at the top of this incredibly high cliff was, incredibly hard to get. But the bamboo was amazing, so incredibly indescribable. To get this bamboo we had to first, climb up really high, to the bamboo then cut it with a saw, to get the right size. While doing this we had to perch on this hill and harvest this extremely stuck bamboo. Intenseness beyond everything. I got 5 pieces, Alcvin got 15! The bamboo is beautiful.

I have seen some samurai movies on TV yesterday that are somewhat good. So after this great fantastically challenging trip to the forest, I came back to the new ryokan here in the little countryside town of Sakakita, (It is much nicer than the one in Tokyo) and had another bath (I'm still in a bathing suit). It was so hot, and then cold, in the cold pool. Now Al is playing and I am sitting in my Japanese gown (yukata) writing.

Food is so expensive!!!
100 Yen for an apple!
120 for a soup-in-a-cup-thingy… (cheap dining)

New Words – dinnery, apoxiracies,

Off to eat chicken!

It wasn’t fricken chicken! It was fish, fish and more fish. Everything had fish or mushrooms – ARGH! Then came the rice but even that tasted like fish because fish flavor was on the chopsticks ~c`est la vie! (sp?)

Now I will go to bed. There are seven other people in this room. I hope I will never eat fish again, ever.

Ps…. We had a mini concert with all honkyoku. I played ‘Daha’. People liked it. It definitely was not my best though. The mini concert was very long, and I now I have to sleep.

Pps I took a bath nude finally. Even though there was only one other guy, so I didn’t really prove anything.

Sleep time. ZZZzzz (etc.)

More fish for breakfast!!! And rice and fish flavored miso and some more mushrooms!!! I ate a lot of rice though, good rice!

Today we burned the bamboo – to accurately describe it - roasting it actually until the oil came out. The bamboo looked really good – excellent! We also cleaned up the bamboo a little more, now it’s a pretty piece.

List of things to buy: tea to bring home, tab (2-pronged socks) vending machine underwear (just to prove it exists!), clothes, hat, tea desserts, kimono, sleeping kimono.

Feeling a little like the characters from the film ‘Lost In Translation’. On a train to Kyoto. Apparently I will love it there. The train is very bouncy. It is hard to write… 4 hours of this! Who hoo!

If you stand on the tracks
The bullet train –
Just like a bullet
~ Peter S. & Ronan N.W.

In a restaurant after J hoppers – an ok hostel in Kyoto… seems promising. The food I ordered I don’t really want to eat. It is not really to my liking – needless to say. From the electrincky ordering waitress with the electronic notebook, I got fried chicken and rice. I think I have had enough rice for one day!

Domo arigato gozai mashta
Ohio gozimas
Genki de
Genki des Ka?
Genki des

Had chicken again. My lesson was supurb!! Shrines were fantastic! Temple was phenomenal! Shopping was great!
Now very tired – eyes hurt so good night to you.

List ideas: main differences between Canada – 0, what to buy, what to do, what not to do, you eat, bring again…

So many girls !!! A procession today!

Nov. 23rd…
Today I finally got a picture with school girls!! One in particular, she was 17 though she looked younger like 14. T’was crazy... Tons of fun! We visited a lot of shrines, temples and castles. I liked the Japanese rock garden best. I am off to another public bath. Different name – Ostento. Tommoprow – Ninja town and Basho’s birth place!

24th
We have been on a train traveling all day and we shall soon arrive at the waterfall training grounds. The water will be cold!

I GOT A BAMBOO SHAKUHACHI!!! Well technically it is not mine yet as I have not money to pay for it! I will ask mom, hopefully we can afford it!!

Shugetsu flute
My hand won’t let go
As I return it
~ Peter S.

25th
Yesterday a waterfall
Epiphany
Heard the wind in the trees

Played flute in the morning – temple chanting – fantastic!

In the afternoon went to Ninja town. Demonstration kicked!

Tonight tea, waterfall

Today is the 27th. The 26th was good, but I now forget what I did. Feeling little reason to write. Feeling also a feeling a cocktail of – anxiety, depression, and aloneness. Today I got up at 4:30 to do zazen. This is how the day went:

4:30 Get up
5:00 Clean everything
6:00 Breakfast
7:00 Gardening
8:00 1000 strikes with wooden sword
8:30 Zazen
9:00 Break
9;05 Zazen
10:05 Garden Work
12:00 Lunch

Zazen = sitting in lotus and not moving.

Needless to say, this was indeed challenging… trying not to move, I was always described as rambunctious and full of energy, this made it all the more challenging. 1 and 1/2 hr Zazen!

Very tiring bus/train home. I had a can in my hand and fell asleep and dropped it, it startled the whole train and me too. Funny though.

Now I really have to sleep. It seems there is never enough energy or time to do everything.

28th – methinks
Excellent sleep!! Although that TV add I saw showing the movie “RINGU” startled me. Writing this down makes it better.

Today – I bought a hat! Sugoi! It’s the hat I’ve been looking for and only for 2,300 yen. Fantastic!

Later we took 8 trains.

We reached Okuda Sensies house and he played for us from 6-7, then we had an excellent dinner that his wife made. Then, I met his daughter and helped her with her English homework. It turns out that she is a lot like me. I am thinking about an exchange program.

Got bamboo to use that had already been cured for the required length of time.

Nighty night!

29th
Sogawa Workshop – got my flute hardly started. Dinner was expensive Indian – 2100 yen. Went to Mejiro Shakuhatchi store, bought some cool stuff for the flute that is partly made. Feeling sloppy and lazy. Trains are expensive. At least taking like 8 trains is much yen!!

Well I am going to do some stuff before I go to sleep – unpack, repack, shower….

Meeting tons of school girls!

30th
5 Days left actually. We had a workshop today at Murai-san's place and we watched him straighten the bamboo, which is a very small part of the whole immense process.

Watching t.v. – something to do with Godzilla. Oh yeah, last night I felt an earthquake – could be Godzilla!

I went to Shibooya today. I have pictures of the colossal quantity of people! It is really fantastic! When you think Tokyo – you think Shiboobya!

31st – I think but don’t know for sure. Went to see Daibudsu today – so big! After this John Paul and I did a long hike. Before this I had my first yam ice cream. There was yam everything, or mountain potato, as they call it.

Bought lots of ice cream, hat – cool, print, admission, tickets, food. That was a good day, finally hiked – something physical. Maybe later will have bath. Everything fits in my bag new bag I got in the Akihabara Electronic District, hurray!!

1st?
I have lost track of the days. Many people here in Japan!!! So many!!!! Say every atom on this dot represents 40 people >

I finished Of Mice and Men last night. Excellent imagery and follow-ups, very consistent. Got a new pen – check it out …

2 & 3rd

yesterday – trains until 1:00. 1:00 – 12:00 walking non-stop! Saw floats pulled by people getting ‘O shoy!” with taiko drummers on the inside. Lots of fireworks and candied bananas. Got into our hotel.

Today - Now reclining on a comfortable bed. Had workshop already – another one on “koku” scheduled for later on. Many baths ahead in the real onsen, I checked it out earlier and they don’t have a cold pool, too bad, but it’s a real onsen!

4 hours of flute – I have a sore throat, my eyes hurt from loss of sleep, I am very cold, numb toes, feeling sick as a dog. “Empty Sky”…. koku

5th
So very sad to be leaving Japan. I will remember this trip forever.

Ps. I took some vitamins and now I feel much better.

4th/5th – I don’t know anymore!

Had a party last night. J.P and I played Yama Biko. On plane, same spot as last time. This time I am sitting next to a guy who knows the Shakuhatchi. Sad again.No sleep so far – did rehearse my school play lines!

Anime I’m inspired to see:
Laputa, - more of that director, Ninja scroll, Akira, Ghost in the shell, Animatrix..

Rained last night. Unrealistically perfect. Rains the night I get there and the night I leave, real prefound. Should rain when I get to Vancouver – 6 degrees C.

At the moment – listening to some Disney station – really depressing – circle of life, changing it to some funky up tempo jazz.

Out of the window double pained like looking at some jet black concave wall with holes in it and light or the other side.

No poetry yet.

Jazz has turned into techno – crud … changing it!

Opera – makes me think of Robin. In turn makes me think of home – changing it..

Over the pacific now.

Coming home with new slang

Sweaty pencil – illegible dyslexia… slipity sliding hand closer to the page….I have noticed a lot of exclamation marks in my writing, because everything was so out of this world beautiful. I can’t wait to get back home, to Japan. Aaaaand scene!